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Farewell Noronha! March 17, 2000
@Sea correspondent/ photographer, Tim Calver |
Fernando de Noronha, Brazil -- The props are churning up the blue Brazilian water, and Fernando de Noronha is shrinking into the distance beyond the stern rail. The Research Vessel SEWARD JOHNSON (RVSJ) is returning to Atol das Rocas. |
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| Markus Corcoron and Hillary Ganz lead the way, strolling along a stretch of Noronha beach. |
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Shore leave has come and gone. I am quite sure that we didn't see a quarter of what Noronha has to offer. Who knows how long that would take to see it all, or if it is even possible? It's a place that makes you want to jump ship and give it a try. |
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Shore leave provided time to catch up on some important work. Kevin Kearney (top) repairs a hole in the expedition's 17 foot inflatable boat. Jules Colomer and Sara Konigson (middle) fix shark-sized holes in a gill net. Jessie Jenkins (bottom), charged with recording all that occurs on the trip, takes a moment to catch up on the log of events.
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Members of our crew would pass each other in the streets and make each other jealous with sights we had seen, and places we had been.
Sara Konigson talked her way onto a local dive boat and followed spinner dolphins as they left Baia dos Golfinhos and began their nightly circle of the island. I had seen the same pod from the aft deck of the RVSJ winding their way between sailboats in the harbor. Spinner dolphins are perfectly named. They throw themselves into the air, rotating in tight spirals like a perfectly thrown footballs, droping back into the sea with barely a splash.
Jenny Schultz hiked the the rim of the northeast coast, leaving no beach untouched. She swam at each one from west to east and had a tough time remembering which was the most beautiful.
Neil Welner started the day with plans to climb Morro do Pico. In the afternoon, we came across Neil sitting on a beach in the rocky spire's shadow, looking out to the sea. The mountain, he learned, is guarded by tiny biting ants. They dropped out of the underbrush into his hair, onto his arms, and under his shirt as he bushwhacked his way toward Morro do Pico's base, nibbling away at any enthusiasm he had for attaining the summit.
Dr. Gruber spent the day photographing Brazilian children. After snapping each digital image, he would flip his camera around, and laugh with the kids as they laughed at their faces on the tiny monitor. It was hard to tell who enjoyed the resulting images more, Doc or the kids.
Now the moon is rising, almost full, over the stern of the SEWARD JOHNSON. It's a reminder that we are due back on Atol das Rocas. High tides are beginning to swell with the moon, the water is getting deeper, and the lemon sharks are beginning to return to the atoll's shallows. |
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